Renting or buying your child a violin, viola, or cello
Questions we are asked frequently by parents looking for an instrument
How will I know what size to get?
The best judge of size is your child’s teacher. You can also get good advice from a shop whose staff specializes in violin-family instruments. Violins and cellos come in fractional sizes (1/2, 1/4, etc.). Violas are in lengths of 12” and up.
VIOLINS: when the child holds the violin in playing position under the chin, left-hand fingers wrapped around the scroll, the elbow should still bend comfortably.
VIOLAS: Up to 14”, the procedure is the same as violins. For larger sizes, expert advice is best. Do not accept violins simply re-strung as violas.
CELLOS: When seated in playing position, adjust the endpin so the lower corners of the cello are at knee height. The C-peg should be at ear height.
Should I rent or buy?
Renting is generally the best way to start. Many people rent for several years, then buy when the child is ready for a full-size instrument. The chief advantage to buying earlier is for the child to have their own instrument, usually one of better quality than found in rentals. Buying really only makes sense if you buy from a dealer who guarantees good trade-ins as you move to bigger sizes. The decision really depends on how much you want to invest in your child’s music-making.
At some point, buying makes more financial sense than renting. Be aware that some dealers place relatively high prices on smaller size rental instruments to ensure your “rent to buy” deal lasts longer. This way, even if you pay it off, your child needs the next bigger size. Your rental is, of course, “used,” and its worth as a trade-in may then be worth only half of what you paid. The dealer your rented from may not even have a selection of higher-level instruments for which you’d want to trade. Ask about trade-in value and instrument selection before you begin renting.
What are the best sources of instruments?
We believe the answer is a specialized violin shop, such as Applebaum Violin Shop, which can provide skilled adjustments and setup for the best sound and easiest playing (fitting the soundpost, carving the bridge, planing the fingerboard, fitting the pegs, etc.) There is on-site skilled repair capability should you need it, as well as expert advice about condition, tone, and value. If you buy, the shop should offer a guaranteed trade-in when it’s time to upgrade, and it should offer a good warranty.
A general music store may also have good basic instruments, but is not likely to stock the higher quality instruments, or to employ in-house repair and adjustment people with the specialized training and skills needed for precision work. If expertise exists, make sure the instrument is adjusted in the shop, not at the factory.
Buying from an individual (friend, ads, pawn shop, auction, garage sale, or the internet) is generally unwise. You get no warranty, and neither the buyer nor seller knows much about the true identity, condition or value of the instrument. We often see such buyers in our store wanting an appraisal and assessment – in which the instrument frequently turns out to need major repairs or is not worth fixing.
Mail-order sources have several disadvantages. There is no way to know the quality of the instrument until it arrives. You cannot tell how it will sound. Adjustment and setup are usually not precise. Setup often will be for a different climate, and crucial adjustments such as soundpost length and string height will almost certainly be wrong. Warranty service is difficult – and your child is without an instrument during the time you ship it back and forth.
Finally, though small items such as strings may be featured at good prices, instruments themselves are generally priced quite high.
Lastly, old “attic violins” that have been in your family may or may not be useable, but age alone does not mean great value. Bring the instrument to a violin shop before putting it to use. Don’t make your child learn on it unless it is the right size.
Why should I be so picky when I don’t know how long my child will continue to play?
The surest way to guarantee that your child will not play for long is to provide an instrument that doesn’t fit, is poorly adjusted and sounds bad. No matter how much your child works, he or she will feel unsuccessful. At least get a good-quality rental, which doesn’t require a major financial commitment.
How can I recognize a good instrument? What brands or countries are good?
While some problems are obvious (major cracks and scars, pegs that slip or stick, or missing parts), many others are noticed only by an experienced repair person. In general, the country of origin is less important than the quality of the instrument. Most good student instruments these days come from China (where violin-making has reached a very high standard), eastern Europe (Bulgaria, Poland, Czech Republic and some from Romania), Germany, and France. Some of the older Suzukis from Japan are good – the newer ones are not. We have not yet seen good instruments from Korea or Sri Lanka.
Not all instruments from each country are of equal value or quality. Some labeled as European are actually made in Asia. It is no longer true that European instruments are generally better than Asian ones. Good beginner instruments currently run between $500-$700 for violins, $600-$800 for violas, and $1000-$1500 for cellos. If you find a used instrument at a much lower price, it probably will need repair work. Good used instruments are not cheaper to buy or rent, and really old ones can be very expensive.
Things to avoid in any instrument are open or poorly repaired cracks or seams, rib damage, extensive neck and scroll repairs, extensively damaged or poorly retouched varnish, and damaged corners and edges. Other things to notice: pegs and fittings of ebony, rosewood, or boxwood are fine. Fingerboards should be ebony, not rosewood or softwood painted black. Strings should be steel or wire-wound nylon. Chinese strings are not good (they sound terrible!). Steel strings should have fine tuners. “One-size-fits-all” bridges with rotating feet denote an amateurish setup.
There are currently no meaningful standards for dimensions or adjustments. The Music Educators National Conference (MENC) standards cited by some manufacturers are outdated and are so minimal as to be useless.
What kind of bow should I get?
For a beginner, a bow with a fiberglass stick is quite adequate, as long as it has real horsehair. Cost will be under $40 for a violin bow. It is usually a better choice than a cheap wooden bow, which will often have a warped, weak stick. If you’re willing to spend a little more, a brazilwood bow ($75-$200 for violin) provides more sensitivity and better tone. In the $220-$250 range, sticks of ipe (“ee-pay”) are better than brazilwood. From $250 and up, you should get a pernambuco stick, but this is not necessary for beginners. Comparable viola bows are about 20% higher (cellos about 40% higher) than violin bows.
Proper weights for bows are: violin, 58-64 grams; viola 67-74 grams; and cello, 77-86 grams. Sources of good student bows are Germany, Brazil, Czech Republic, and China. Not all bows from these countries are good, of course.
What kind of case do I need?
For violins and violas, rectangular (oblong) cases carry more gear, but are more expensive than shaped cases. You won’t often see them used for rentals. The best cases are wood with Cordura covers. Some lightweight cases based on hard foam, with Cordura covers and good internal padding, are quite good. “Suspension” cases, in which the instrument rests on blocks of foam, give the best protection. Molded plastic violin and viola cases, with hard foam interiors finished with spray-on flocking, give poor protection, and tend to break. The plastic is easily damaged, and can’t be fixed.
When buying a case, look closely at the quality of materials and fittings. The lining thread count, case rigidity, quality of hinges, locks and zippers, and bowholders will determine how long the case will last. Discount cases may look good, but may last only a year or two. For violas of 15” or bigger, an adjustable case is best, to accommodate any size as the child grows. For cellos, a hard case is best, costing $450-$700. Heavily padded soft cases are fine, at $100-$150. Make sure your cello goes in and out easily, and that the zipper or snaps don’t scratch the cello.
What other equipment and accessories will my child need?
For violin and viola, a good shoulder rest is important, such as Wolf or Kun. Adjustable ones are best, since they custom-fit even growing people. Avoid Resonans-brand rests, as they usually cause damage to the instrument. All players need rosin (get a special kind for cellos), a music stand, and some way to tune (tuning fork, pitch pipe, electronic keyboard or piano). A bottle of polish is useful, but don’t waste money on special cleaning cloths – a soft cotton rag is fine. Cellists will need a way to keep the endpin from slipping, such as a Rock Stop or Sure Stop.